unspoiled island ended. This artist with a lust for life painted his final masterpieces here. In the hilltop cemetery where Gauguin is buried is the gravestone of another European who was seduced by these islands: singer-composer Jacques Brel. Your guides will show you mysterious jungle ruins the largest tikis outside the Easter Islands. Once used for religious rites, theses human-like stone sculptures are reminders that a great civilization flourished here before Europeans invaded.

Even though Fatu Hiva is a centre of Marquesan culture, Aranui passengers usually are the only visitors to this remote, verdant island. You'll see artists painting ancient designs on Tapa cloth, making pareos (sarongs) and monoi, coconut oil scented with tiare blossoms. You'll see woodworkers carving intricate bowls and spears. After hiking past towering cliffs with dizzying views of majestic waterfalls, cool off with a plunge in a secluded river pool.

On Ua Huka, the wild horses outnumber the 300 residents. Explore by horse or Jeep- either way you will have magnificent views. Along the way, you'll enjoy bounteous Marquesan buffets: barbecued rock lobster, poisson cru (raw fish marinated in lime juice and soaked in coconut milk), curried goat, breadfruit, taro and sweet red bananas.